The "new classic" style. Charles Van Canneyt deems his wines of 2023 a great balance of new and old with a set of wines that are "ripe but fresh and vibrant with pliant tannins and good transparency." The perfect recipe to a great Burgundy that Charles shows through both the Hudelot-Noellat range and his own negoce label.
Having been at the helm for over a decade now, Charles has solidified his style and brought confidence to his wines across Chambolle-Musigny to Vosne-Romanee. Focusing on a simple approach with destemmed fruit, two to three week maceration and 18 months ageing in barrels in their cold cellar, Charles "produces elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and ageing potential."
I have known Charles for a very long time and I can honestly say I am excited every time I open a bottle of Hudelot-Noellat. He just doesn't miss. With the velvety texture of the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Charmes, the silky and refined Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Suchots, and of course the compelling mineral-driven bouquet of the Romanee-St-Vivant Grand Cru, there is a bottle to indulge in just for you. The Negoce label also stepping in with 9 cuvees to explore the intricacies of the Premier Crus and Grand Crus justs outside the radius of the Hudelot mosaic.
And yes, if you missed the email earlier in the week, his new Domaine des Chezeaux has launched their debut vintage! Please reach out if you still wish to secure a bottle or two.
Please enjoy the range below.
Tasting Notes
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - BOURGOGNE PASSETOUTGRAIN 2023
30% Gamay co-planted with Pinot. Fine paler colour. The nose is rampantly wild without being deviant. The peppers appear alongside the vibrant raspberry strawberry fruit. Perhaps more structured than a typical “glou glou” natural wine. Strawberry bonbons to finish. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy. 2022 review.
CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2023
The Bourgogne Pinot Noir is sourced out of the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, a cooler area delivering elegant and savoury Pinots. The nose is delicate with notes of red berries, lots of energy as well as black tea, and subtle dry leaf flavours. The palate is light footed and delivers a delicate attack with a silky structure.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2023
Just racked and sulphured, fine rich purple with a generous red berry fruit on the nose, lots of fresh acidity here as well, a crunchy red fruit, nonetheless quality pinot fruit with some length. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Nov 2024. 87-89 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2023
(from 11 different parcels in 7 different lieux-dits). This is also aromatically fresh and bright with its essence of lightly spiced red berries. In the same fashion as the Bourgogne, the mouthfeel of the medium weight flavours is moderately robust, serious and powerful before terminating in a firm and lingering finish that flirts with rusticity. 88-91 points - Allen Meadows, Burghound.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - MEURSAULT "CLOS DES ECOLES" 2023
The 2023 Meursault Clos des Ecole has quite a honeyed bouquet. The palate is sweet and again, a little honeyed on the entry, with low acidity. It's open with a charming brioche and orange pith tinged finish. This is early drinking. Neal Martin, Vinous.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - VOSNE-ROMANÉE 2023
(this has some young vines 1ers added to a blend of 85% Basses Maizières and 15% Les Vigneux). An exuberantly spicy nose features notes of poached plum, black cherry, exotic tea and a whiff of oak. The vibrant, well-detailed and utterly delicious medium-bodied flavours also conclude in a moderately robust and lingering but not rustic finale. Even so, this solid effort is definitely fashioned in a bigger and more powerful style than is typical for Hudelot. 89-91 points - Allen Meadows, Burghound.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES "LES BAS DU COMBES" 2023
Ruby to light purple. The bouquet is a very good rendition of Vosne-side Nuits, more stylish red fruit, less dark and plummy. The fruit remains entirely red, alpine strawberry and ripe redcurrants, with life and excitement. Drink from 2029-2035. 90-93 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2023
The Gevrey-Chambertin has a delicate nose that gives way to an array of red fruits flavours, red cherry, rose petals, plum and spices. On the palate, a great sense of finesse delivers a lovely density, silky tannin structure and a lingering finish. It can be decanted for 25 minutes before serving or cellared up until 2029+.
CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - NUITS-ST-GEORGES 1ER CRU "LES DAMODES" 2023
This was a real highlight in the range from Charles van Canneyt’s négociant operation this year. The nose is scented with crushed violets and lush, dark fruit – blackberry and blackcurrant. The palate is laden with juicy fruit, but with a mineral line that holds it all in place. The tannins are chalky and fine, while the finish is long and mouth-watering. Impressive.
CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - MOREY-ST-DENIS 1ER CRU "SORBETS" 2023
Les Sorbets lies next to Clos Sorbets in a line of 1ers Crus sitting just below the Grands Crus in the heart of the village. And this example is a little cracker, offering an awful lot of wine for the money. It displays the classic spice overtones that give Morey its unique character, whilst the fruit is cool, red fruited and youthful. A classically vibrant 2021 that is full of promise. Drink from 2026.
CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU "LES CHABIOTS" 2023
This is an exquisite wine – with bright energy and the most haunting perfume, reminiscent with a peony and rose bouquet that offers classic Chambolle elegance. Transparent and pure, with seamlessly fine tannins, it’s full of pretty, dainty red berry fruit, with mouth-watering acidity and mineral freshness.
CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU "LES SENTIERS" 2023
Les Sentiers showcases the finesse and complexity of Pinot Noir, with nuanced aromas of red berries, floral notes, and spice, culminating in a silky texture and a lingering finish that embodies the terroir of this renowned vineyard.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - VOUGEOT 1ER CRU "LES PETITS VOUGEOT" 2023
A fresh ruby, slightly the densest of the colours to date and with a concentration of fruit to match. On the cusp of red and black fruit, with a suave texture in the mouth, a little layer of velvet, notable persistence with fruit returning well after the finish. Drink from 2030-2036. 91-94 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - NUITS-ST-GEORGES 1ER CRU "LES MURGERS" 2023
The darker side of purple here. A classic nose, the weight and power of north side Nuits lifted by the headier class of Vosne-Romanée. Clearly a lot of wine in this glass. On the cusp of red and black yet fresh, lifted and quite concentrated, fills the mouth in satisfying fashion with a perfect fruit-acid balance Drink from 2030-2038. 93-96 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU "CHARMES" 2023
A fine even purple colour. Not so much bouquet showing, but this is beautifully balanced on the palate, with a velvet texture plus some interesting white pepper on the palate despite no stems, then a return of the raspberry and redcurrant fruit. Drink from 2030-2036. 92-95 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - VOSNE-ROMANÉE 1ER CRU "LES SUCHOTS" 2023
Ancient vines, tiny millerand grapes, have delivered a wine of incredibly intense colour, a deep and imperial purple. You can smell those grape skins on the nose. As powerful a Suchots as I can remember yet not denatured by this intensity. Blueberries and bilberries, yielding to a precise, concentrated finish. Drink from 2030-2038. 94-97 points - William Kelley, Wine Advocate.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - VOSNE-ROMANÉE 1ER CRU "LES MALCONSORTS" 2023
The 2023 Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts 1er Cru has an outstanding, beautifully defined bouquet with blackberry, briar and sois-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins, mineral-rich red fruit tones and hints of iodine and orange rind toward the finish. What a superb Vosne-Romanee from Hudelot-Noellat. 96-98 points - Neal Martin, Vinous.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - CLOS DE VOUGEOT GRAND CRU 2023
An intense purple, with fair nobility on the nose. Red and black fruits mixed, with a grand cru depth to the palate even if less seductive in youth than a Suchots or Malconsorts. However layers play out very well in the mouth with some little dark blueberries and bilberries right at the back. An excellent fruit acid balance without aggressive tannins. Drink from 2033-2040. 94-96pts - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - ECHEZEAUX 2023
The Echezeaux vineyards of Burgundy sit inbetween the Clos de Vougeot vineyard and the Vosne-Romanée Premiers Crus vineyards. At such a rich and diverse position, wines of dense texture and supple tannins are crafted.
CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN 2023
Its delicate nose shows finesse and freshness with flavours of sweet red cherries, eucalyptus and subtle floral scents. On the palate, one will find an abundance of delicacy with a silky structure supporting a long finish. It can be decanted for 45 minutes before serving or cellared up until 2030+.
CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - RUCHOTTES-CHAMBERTIN 2023
Charles van Canneyt’s Ruchottes offers a nose of rich, sweet black cherry fruit. There’s good intensity to the fruit – with a focused core of black plum and red cherry. It’s not revealing its full complexity yet, but everything is in place here – with balance between the juicy acidity, velveteen tannins and vibrant fruit.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - ROMANÉE-ST-VIVANT GRAND CRU 2023
The 2023 Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru was the last cuvee to finish its malo. This has a compelling mineral-driven bouquet with intense red berry fruit, razor-sharp delineation and poise. It's perhaps a level-up from the previous vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with a plush entry. It's velvety smooth in texture, with a patina of oak to be subsumed, but there is plenty of weight on the finish and a wonderful peppery aftertaste. It's one of the more powerful wines from the domaine, but it will give many years of pleasure. This is fabulous. 96-98 points - Neal Martin, Vinous.
HUDELOT-NOËLLAT - RICHEBOURG GRAND CRU 2023
The 2023 Richebourg Grand Cru has a complex, pure, focused bouquet with a strong influence and plenty of tightly coiled black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a sorbet-fresh opening. It has superb structure, though it's not as velvety as the Romanee-Saint-Vivant, with slightly sharper acidity and a sustained finish. Apparently, this is becoming more and more complex in barrel. It's very concentrated but it delivers the energy and frisson that should guarantee it ages long-term. 95-97 points - Neal Martin, Vinous.