Capturing Character. Every vintage Henri Boillot knows how to best bottle the essence of the diverse terroirs he has at his disposal. 2023 is no different, with rich and powerful Volnays and energetic and persistent Meursaults there is a bottle to suit everyone.
Back at the helm himself, Henri knows his vineyards inside and out, having curated his plots over the decades to bring together the most impressive vines across all tiers of Burgundy. Not to be considered lesser, the entry level Bourgogne is anything but, with an "utterly delicious and solidly concentrated" flavours to sip away at over the next couple of years. Allen Meadows enjoyed the tasting through every level of classification when visiting Henri and the "elegant nose of black cherry, crushed anise and whiff of rose petal" drew his attention to the Volnay Village.
Of course those indulging in a Premier Cru has a plethora of Volnays at your disposal. Maybe it is the "beautifully layered" Chevrets or "gorgeously textured" Caillerets you are after, or simply a "satisfying and balanced" Fremiets to round out the trio. Coming in at the top we have just a few bottles of the Grand Crus coming into Australia with the classic Chambertin, Bonnes Mares and Clos-de-Beze all taking a front seat in the 2023 vintage with 94+ ratings!
No doubt about it, the white wines are just as eye-catching. Henri knows how to create engaging, ripe Burgundian Chardonnay bouquets with 90+ ratings on his whole white wine range! From Bourgogne to Grand Cru there is a beauty in every cuvee read y be unlocked. Maybe a "racy and open-knit" Meursault? Or a "floral and linear" Puligny-Montrachet? Step it up with the Premier Crus for a glass of charm and tension in a Perrieres, or an intriguing Combettes. No doubt some of you will be holding your breath for a glass of the Pucelles with its bright and vibrant revere, but do not forget the Meursaults with Clos Richemont, Genevrieres, Gouttes d'Or and Poruzot all filling a glass with striking textural depth.
Whether after a nice ready to drink Bourgogne, or a cellaring opportunity with the Corton-Charlemagne, you will not be disappointed. Please see the full range below.
Tasting Notes
BOURGOGNE COTE D'OR PINOT NOIR 2023
The 2023 Bourgogne Rouge is stellar. Bold, fruity and effusive, the Bourgogne is impossible not to love. Henri Boillot often outperforms at this level. The 2023 is no exception. The purity of the fruit here is just superb. A burst of sweet red/purplish fruit and floral notes punctuate the finish. What an utterly delicious wine this is. 88-90 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
BOURGOGNE COTE D'OR CHARDONNAY 2023
From appellation Bourgogne vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault along with a bit of St-Aubin and Auxey-Duresses. Mid lemon yellow, with a very engaging correctly ripe Burgundian chardonnay bouquet. Sign up for this. There is still some gas present at the moment which enforces the welcome freshness. 88-90 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
MEURSAULT 2023
All domaine. En Luraules, Chevalières, Casse Têtes, Petits Charrons. Mid lemon yellow, not as immediately powerful as En Remilly, but more refined and then fleshes out on the second half of the plate, where it really impresses. A back loaded Meursault as it should be, yet with adequate minerals too. Very, very persistent. 20% new wood. 91-94 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2023
From Charmes, Houlières, Enseignères, Rue Rousseau and Rue aux Vaches. 20% new wood. Mid lemon yellow. Reductive. Starts discreetly, then builds in intensity, as always more linear than the Meursault, with a fair length of finish. 89-91 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
VOLNAY 2023
The 2023 Volnay is going to need a few years to soften. It offers terrific fruit intensity and raciness, but the tannins are pretty intense at this stage, especially for a wine with so much forward fruit. A burst of red cherry/plum fruit, blood orange, mint and sage extends the long, sustained finish. 90-92 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU "CLOS RICHEMONT" 2023
A fine even lemon yellow. Racy on the nose, not as immediately distinguished as Goutte d’Or but the qualities creep up on you. More linear, a suggestion of salinity., with layers of a pure limestone white fruit, plenty of dry extract affirms Henri Boillot. Very persistent. 93-95 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU "GOUTTES D'OR" 2023
Mid lemon yellow, with a pure sunny white fruit nose, not demonstrative. Much classier stone fruit in the mouth, with a citrus energy towards the back. Well integrated oak, great persistence, this is a very noble Goutte d’Or. 94-96 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU "PORUZOTS" 2023
The 2023 Meursault Les Poruzots 1er Cru is elegant and lifted right out of the gate. White flowers, lemon peel, hazelnut, white pepper and light tropical accents all grace this airy, mid-weight 1er Cru. Bright saline notes extend the mid-palate and finish with effortless finesse. 91-93 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU "GENEVRIERES" 2023
A fuller yellow, yet with a mite of reduction. Discreetly nuanced nose behind the reduction, with a measured tread to the fruit on the nose, some oak at the finish, properly persistent once again. As the oak subsides the fruit arrives. This needs time for its discreet qualities to emerge from behind the barrel. 93-95 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU "LES PERRIERES" 2023
A lemon colour. This is more on the stones than a heavyweight on the nose. On the palate there is a wealth of ripe citrus, with the start of some yellow peaches, but the stones definitely dominate. Slightly two-speed at the moment, but should pull together by the end of its elevage. 91-93 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU "LES COMBETTES" 2023
First picked, as you have to these days. Mid lemon yellow. The bouquet shows softer fruit up front, something of a cashmere texture on the palate, with some ripe citrus, fair acidity but the balance of the wine is more fragile. 90-93 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU "LES PUCELLES" 2023
Clear pale lemon. Immediate class on the nose, a pure white fruit with just the right degree of sunshine to make it satisfying. Electricity on the palate, energetic fresh limestone, some ripe citrus persisting behind. Henri tells me that Pucelles came in with both the highest sugar level and the highest acidity. 93-95 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU "CLOS DE LA MOUCHERE" MONOPOLY 2023
A fuller yellow here, and an extra degree of completeness, more weight and almost all the class. The oak is still at 50% new and is very well integrated. Gorgeously rich, with little fruits dancing through a meadow. Once again, I do see the magic of this. Henri was strongly advised by his father to look after “Madame de la Mouchère”. 94-97 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU "LES FREMIETS" 2023
The 2023 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru is floral, light on its feet and quite gracious. Crushed rose petal, spice, blood orange, month and dried herbs give the Fremiets a very pretty register of high-toned aromatics that serves to balance the overt expression of primary fruit. 92-94 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU "LES CHEVRETS" 2023
A fine crimson purple. A little fresher than the Frémiets, with pure red fruit, cherry and raspberry, a little more mouthfilling, stays youthful all the way through, very well mastered, an impressive Chevrets. 92-94 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU "LES CAILLERETS" 2023
The 2023 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru is a heady, explosive wine. Ripe dark red fruit, blood orange, cinnamon, kirsch and rose petal make a strong opening impression. This exuberant yet mid-weight Volnay impresses with its exotic beauty. The aromatics alone are beguiling. 92-94 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 2023
A deep ruby purple. Powerful dense red fruit without detail as yet. Solid, concentrated, four-square, with no shortage of fruit, and a few tannins completing the muscular structure. Perhaps not quite as persistent as the best in the cellar. 91-94 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
BONNES-MARES 2023
A crimson ruby. A little wilder than the Chambertin duo, a little plummier, softly ripe raspberries, a range of interesting complex aromatics. Builds fascinatingly on the palate, possibly a higher pH but thoroughly rewarding, with a complex texture as well, multi-layered, and very long. 94-96 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
CHAMBERTIN 2023
More purple and less ruby compared to Beze. A greater depth of fruit, more layers to it. I loved the vigour of the Clos de Bèze but this has more of a natural majesty. Profound, with a silky texture on top of a hard rock Chambertin. 95-97 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 2023
A paler colour, also beautifully done, with little stones infusing the bouquet. “This is far from being ridiculous” suggests Henri. A wonderful thread. The oak is a touch more marked, an iron backbone yet with some delicacy to the fruit, fresh apple, a little citrus, some pear as well, and all a harmonious whole. Really well done. 94-97 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
BATARD-MONTRACHET 2023
Fullish yellow, beautifully rich, quite oaky. Quite an opulent fruit salad style of nose behind, blows the oak off in no time at all. Pretty weighty, quite muscular, good acidity, the feeling that you are barely seeing what is underneath. Possibly not the same degree of finesse as the Clos de la Mouchère, though. 93-95 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
MONTRACHET 2023
Mid lemon colour. Discreet but majestic nose. No problem with at all. So many threads on the palate, one greener which lifts it, but the individual fruits should not be singled out – nectarine, passion fruit without excess, a broad base of your favourite apple, lean and sinewy but entirely compelling. 95-98 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.