A Rising Superstar from Gevrey-Chambertin
Is Domaine Duroché the new Domaine Rousseau of Gevrey-Chambertin? The short answer is yes.
Domaine Rousseau is to Gevrey-Chambertin what Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is to Vosne-Romanée. These Estates are old established producers of renown, and yet a newcomer, elevating to these great standards, has us dizzy with excitement.
I have to say, as a big fan of Domaine Rousseau, that when I discovered Pierre Duroché's wines nearly four years ago, it was like being struck by lightning. These wines have the same DNA, the same magnificent fresh fruit profile coupled with tremendous depth, minerality and drinkability. The essence of the greatest Pinot Noir of Burgundy! And Duroché has a similar portfolio of appellations, including the mighty Chambertin Clos de Bèze.
Fast forward a few years, and wine critics and Burgundy fans alike have been enjoying the same revelation. Domaine Duroché became the new blue chip producer of Burgundy but without the price tag.
The wines are extremely hard to get a hold of. I recommend buying anything you can, while they last at these prices.
- BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2018
• 88 points - Neil Martin - Vinous
- GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2018
• 90 points - Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a slightly rustic, ferrous bouquet that needs to knit together during the remainder of its élevage. The palate conveys satisfying sapidity and steely tannins. The taut, brisk, stony finish disguises the warmth of the growing season. Superb winemaking on display here.
• 89-91pts - Neil Martin - Vinous
- GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “CHAMP” 2018
• 91-94pts - Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Champ shows a little more amplitude than the regular Gevrey Village. Perfumed wilted rose petal scents and crushed stone infuse the transparent red fruit on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with a crunchy opening. A brittle-boned Gevrey (and I write that in a positive sense) with a stony, mineral-driven finish. Great persistence here. Superb.
•89-91pts - Neil Martin - Vinous
- GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “LES JEUNES ROIS” 2018
• 92-94pts - Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Roi, which is completely de-stemmed, is tightly wound on the nose, quite strict and almost Morey-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied and delivers very pure, almost crystalline tart red fruit with a touch of white pepper toward the composed, persistent finish. Excellent.
•90-92pts - Neil Martin - Vinous
- GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU "LAVAUX-ST-JACQUES" 2018
• 93-96pts - Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, which comes from six parcels, delivers one of the purest and most mineral-driven of Duroché’s aromatics this year, beautifully defined and resolutely classic in style. The palate is well balanced and rounded in the mouth, although I prefer the Champeaux this year, since this just feels a little smudged at present. Let’s see how it develops once in bottle.
• 90-92pts - Neil Martin - Vinous
- CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU 2018
• 94-97pts - Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy
The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet, a mixture of red and blue fruit (very typical of this vineyard) with floral topnotes. While not the most complex of Duroché’s Grand Crus, it lives up to its name and has plenty of charm. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, moderate acidity. Needs to develop some more tension and bite toward the finish but certainly delivers plenty of persistence. Very fine.
• 91-93pts - Neil Martin - Vinous.
- LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN 2018
• 95-98pts Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy
The 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has a much more complex and engaging bouquet compared to the Charmes-Chambertin, a smorgasbord of ebullient red berry fruit laced with minerals and wilted rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a brisk line of acidity. Fresh and vibrant with gentle grip toward the finish. This is an outstanding 2018 from Pierre Duroché that will give 20 to 30 years of drinking pleasure. Superb.
• 95-97pts - Neil Martin - Vinous
- CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE
• 97-99pts - Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy
The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a profoundly complex bouquet that compels you to stop and contemplate the irresistible blend of red berry fruit, sous-bois, blood orange and crushed stone with fabulous delineation. The medium-bodied palate delivers supple tannins and perfectly judged acidity. Quite Rousseau-like in style, with a classic, multidimensional, somehow “complete” finish. Outstanding. Just four barrels produced.
• 96-98pts - Neil Martin - Vinous