Domaine Duroché 2018 Release | THE NEW ROUSSEAU?

Domaine Duroché 2018 Release | THE NEW ROUSSEAU?

A Rising Superstar from Gevrey-Chambertin

Is Domaine Duroché the new Domaine Rousseau of Gevrey-Chambertin? The short answer is yes. 

Domaine Rousseau is to Gevrey-Chambertin what Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is to Vosne-Romanée. These Estates are old established producers of renown, and yet a newcomer, elevating to these great standards, has us dizzy with excitement.

I have to say, as a big fan of Domaine Rousseau, that when I discovered Pierre Duroché's wines nearly four years ago, it was like being struck by lightning. These wines have the same DNA, the same magnificent fresh fruit profile coupled with tremendous depth, minerality and drinkability. The essence of the greatest Pinot Noir of Burgundy! And Duroché has a similar portfolio of appellations, including the mighty Chambertin Clos de Bèze.

Fast forward a few years, and wine critics and Burgundy fans alike have been enjoying the same revelation. Domaine Duroché became the new blue chip producer of Burgundy but without the price tag.

The wines are extremely hard to get a hold of. I recommend buying anything you can, while they last at these prices.  

The 2018 Bourgogne Blanc, which comes from the Les Grands Champs lieu-dit, is aged for 11 months in barrel with just 10% new oak, all in demi-muids. It has a delightful, well-defined bouquet of white flowers and a hint of praline. The palate is taut on the entry, and a welcome twist of sour lemon lends drive and race to the finish. Quite intellectual for such a “lovely” Burgundy. 
• 88 points - Neil Martin - Vinous

Pretty, mid purple. The nose is quite perky with some attractive violet notes and fresh raspberry, maybe a little darker on the palate but with an attractive vivacity. Pierre did well to take his foot off the pedal in 2018. Good density at the finish despite the gentle approach.
• 90 points - Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a slightly rustic, ferrous bouquet that needs to knit together during the remainder of its élevage. The palate conveys satisfying sapidity and steely tannins. The taut, brisk, stony finish disguises the warmth of the growing season. Superb winemaking on display here.
• 89-91pts - Neil Martin - Vinous

Classy dense purple, with a little touch of reduction. Super-succulent with an intensity at the back of the palate, specifically dark raspberry along with the more characteristic strawberry fruit, and a really long, finely balanced finish. This is exceptional for village Gevrey. I love the finish.
• 91-94pts - Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Champ shows a little more amplitude than the regular Gevrey Village. Perfumed wilted rose petal scents and crushed stone infuse the transparent red fruit on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with a crunchy opening. A brittle-boned Gevrey (and I write that in a positive sense) with a stony, mineral-driven finish. Great persistence here. Superb.
•89-91pts - Neil Martin - Vinous

All is right here, Pierre feels, magnificent plants, a great place in which he is always happy to be working. Never any rotten fruit, always good acidity, and does not suffer from vintage extremes. The vines were planted in 1952 and made apart since 2005. Always around 30 hl/ha. Glowing very dense purple, the nose shows infinite class in the glass and there is an explosion of ripe but fresh fruit. This transcends its appellation. A huge volume of fruit to enjoy here!
•  92-94pts - Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Roi, which is completely de-stemmed, is tightly wound on the nose, quite strict and almost Morey-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied and delivers very pure, almost crystalline tart red fruit with a touch of white pepper toward the composed, persistent finish. Excellent.
•90-92pts - Neil Martin - Vinous
Rich dark purple. The nose has a huge volume of fruit on it too, while the cool fresh air has kept the balance. This makes for a more complex nose, with a superb weight of sweet dark cherry fruit at the back and a little spicy mineral tingle. Maturity and ethereal at the time. Very special. As the French would say, digeste, which does not translate so well into English.
• 93-96pts - Jasper Morris  - Inside Burgundy

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, which comes from six parcels, delivers one of the purest and most mineral-driven of Duroché’s aromatics this year, beautifully defined and resolutely classic in style. The palate is well balanced and rounded in the mouth, although I prefer the Champeaux this year, since this just feels a little smudged at present. Let’s see how it develops once in bottle.
• 90-92pts - Neil Martin - Vinous
Dense fresh purple, sunny and complex nose, showing a bit of whole bunch here even though the component is just 20%. A complete explosion of classical Charmes type fruit, raspberries and cream, sumptuous but balanced, keen intensity to finish and certainly retains the vital fresh element this year. Very long indeed.
• 94-97pts - Jasper Morris  - Inside Burgundy

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet, a mixture of red and blue fruit (very typical of this vineyard) with floral topnotes. While not the most complex of Duroché’s Grand Crus, it lives up to its name and has plenty of charm. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, moderate acidity. Needs to develop some more tension and bite toward the finish but certainly delivers plenty of persistence. Very fine.
• 91-93pts - Neil Martin - Vinous.

Almost black centre, with a little purple edge. Again we can perceive a little touch of whole bunch vinification. Massive weight to this and very Latricières in its plumply sumptuous style. Balanced as ever, and long as ever. Dark raspberry through blackcurrant for the fruit register.
• 95-98pts Jasper Morris  - Inside Burgundy

The 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has a much more complex and engaging bouquet compared to the Charmes-Chambertin, a smorgasbord of ebullient red berry fruit laced with minerals and wilted rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a brisk line of acidity. Fresh and vibrant with gentle grip toward the finish. This is an outstanding 2018 from Pierre Duroché that will give 20 to 30 years of drinking pleasure. Superb.
• 95-97pts - Neil Martin - Vinous

12 rows below and 8 above going up to the top, planted 1920. Four whole barrels this year! 13,000 plants per hectare for horse work and no space wasted. Rich imperial purple, with little bouquet at first request. Super-succulent, oak shows a little here, suave finish, Clos de Bèze keeps its majesty under wraps, a discreet queen of Chambertin. Beautifully poised…. 12 rows below and 8 above going up to the top, planted 1920. Four whole barrels ….
• 97-99pts - Jasper Morris  - Inside Burgundy

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a profoundly complex bouquet that compels you to stop and contemplate the irresistible blend of red berry fruit, sous-bois, blood orange and crushed stone with fabulous delineation. The medium-bodied palate delivers supple tannins and perfectly judged acidity. Quite Rousseau-like in style, with a classic, multidimensional, somehow “complete” finish. Outstanding. Just four barrels produced.
• 96-98pts - Neil Martin - Vinous