The unstoppable Thibaud Clerget has continued to impress not only me but critics from around the globe. Into his 7th vintage for 2021, he has truly found his stride and the wines are a strong reflection of the way in which he continues to push boundaries and achieve that next level above.
With such a difficult year across Burgundy, there are few bottles of each of Domaine Clerget this year, but have no doubt, they all pack a punch. Since Thibaud's arrival, the estate has not only had a new face, but a new destiny. having trained in both France and abroad, this experienced winemaker keeps his feet firmly on the ground keeping pace with everything from vine to marketing. Driven by his ambition to take the wines further each year, Thibaud makes sure he is on all fronts and with a taste for adventure, he is fast becoming one of the most promising winegrowers of his generation.
With this new curious and open-minded generation of winemakers also comes the adaptability of practices vintage to vintage. Thibaud is never set in his principles or confined to strict rules: for him, each vintage is a challenge to take up, willing to alter the ways in which he conducts his viticulture and vinification to produce the best range of wines possible (while maintaining a sustainable practice).
With a total of 6 hectares of vines across the estate (growing to 10.5 ha for 2023), Thibaud knows them inside and out. From Meursault to Vougeot, between Pommard and Volnay, the portfolio of appellations is simply incredible with only the greatest crus from these villages.
Please enjoy this pure and fresh vintage by Domaine Clerget.
"Clerget kicks the ball out of the park in 2021; perhaps my favourite of all the growers I tasted in Volnay" - Neal Martin
Yvon Clerget Wines
BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2021
3 barrels made instead of 9. All destemmed and no new wood. A very pretty pale ruby. Floral side of raspberries. Very delicious, such an elegance of pinot here, juicy and with a fine long finish. Just enough acidity to provide tension Drink from 2024-2026. 87-89 pts - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
VOLNAY VILLAGE 2021
From Echards and Petits Gamets, six barrels instead of 24. No new wood nor whole bunch. A touch more colour and a little more depth of fruit than the Bourgogne, more in fruit than floral. This is so stylish on the palate, alpine strawberries as much as raspberries, a good thread of acidity, and very pleasing length. Drink from 2025-2030. 90-92 pts - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU "CARELLE SOUS LA CHAPELLE" 2021
There were only two barrels of the 2021 Volnay En Carelle Sous La Chapelle 1er Cru, that had just been bottled, so there was some reduction when I tasted it at the Domaine. Despite this, there seems to be sufficient red brambly fruit on the nose, quite open and appealing. The palate is well-balanced and has fine substance, with good grip and dark fruit on the finish. My hunch is that this will age better than many Volnays. 92pts - Neal Martin, Vinous.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU "LES SANTENOTS" 2021
A glowing fresh ruby colour. The bouquet is on the lighter side, quite floral for Santenots. Two barrels, of one year old wood, instead of 18, though partly the failing rootstock is to blame. 20% whole bunch which actually lifts the finish, gives the wine more grace. This is really very fine, or will be if you can find it. A fresh and fine boned finish. Drink from 2026-2032. 91-94 pts - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU "CLOS DU VERSEUIL" MONOPOLE 2021
The 2021 Clos de Verseuil 1er Cru was fully destemmed and matured in 20% new oak. This has a lovely oyster shell element on the nose, intertwined with lush red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with lightly spiced red fruit, good grip and building weight in the mouth towards an almost Pommard-like finish. Convincing in terms of complexity here. 92-94pts - Neal Martin, Vinous.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU "LES CAILLERETS" 2021
The 2021 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru comes from 90-year old vines and completely destemmed, two barrels instead of ten. It has another sensual bouquet with red cherries, wild strawberry and rose petal scents - elegant and refined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that frame the bay-infused red fruit, with a touch of black pepper decorating the persistent finish. Excellent. 94pts - Neal Martin, Vinous.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU "EN CHAMPANS" 2021 MAGNUM
There is a solitary (new) barrel of the 2021 Volnay En Champans 1er Cru, which uses 100% whole bunches. No pumps were used throughout the entire vinification process. It has an unerringly pure bouquet with red cherries, bergamot and rose petal scents that are utterly seductive. The palate is medium-bodied, and the new wood does make an impression, yet there is sufficient fruit to soak that up, and it feels long on the finish. 94 pts - Neal Martin, Vinous.
POMMARD 1ER CRU "LES RUGIENS" 2021
The 2021 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru comprises seven barrels (one-year old) with 20% whole bunches. The nose presents notes of brambly red fruit with loam and hints of rose petals and sage - there is a fine complexity here. The palate is very refined, with ample vibrant red fruit and a judicious dab of white pepper. This wine is gourmand towards its fine-boned finish. Wonderful. 93-95pts - Neal Martin, Vinous.
CLOS DE VOUGEOT GRAND CRU 2021
The Clos Vougeot was spared after late pruning. Half whole bunch and half new wood, two of the four barrels. A fine bright crimson purple. A wealth of fruit supported by a little bit of well chosen oak makes up a very stylish bouquet. Remarkably enticing for Clos de Vougeot, floral, dark raspberry, brambly from the whole bunch, fine and stylish tannins. Very impressive. Drink from 2028-2036. 93-96 pts - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.
BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2021
Not tasted by critics at the time of visits.
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU "BOUCHERES" 2021
Not tasted by critics at the time of visits.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU "PERRIERES" 2021
Not tasted by critics at the time of visits.
CORTON "LE ROGNET" GRAND CRU 2021
Thibaut runs the viticulture in this vineyard then buys the grapes. 50% whole bunch 50% new wood. Mid crimson, showing a very toasty and lactic style of new wood. Very juicy behind, the whole bunch is almost hidden but I suspect stretches out the finish nicely, and the fruit is not too ripe. Finishes very well, as long as the oak calms down. Actually very long. 92-95 points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy. (2020 review)