Six Benchmark Red Burgundy Village Wines | Unreservedly Recommended
- DOMAINE HENRI BOILLOT – VOLNAY 2017 - $145
In one generation, Henri Boillot has dramatically increased the quality of his Domaine wines and created a boutique négoce of the highest reputation. The wines, honed by Henri’s prodigious talent, display such a high level of detail and complexity that it is fair to say that they are among the very best representatives of Burgundy’s finest. The Volnay is all domaine vines blended from village and declassified fruit, aged in 228ltr (20% new) barrels for 12 months.
(from Le Village). A more deeply pitched nose combines notes of violet with those of cassis and plum. The sleek, intense and beautifully vibrant medium weight flavours possess fine delineation and a subtle minerality that adds a sense of lift to the balanced, long, linear and youthfully austere finale. This too is very good for its level. - Allen Meadows - Burghound.
- DOMAINE YVON CLERGET - VOLNAY 2017 - $125
Thibaud Clerget took over the family Domaine in 2015; one of the oldest Domaines in the village. The rebirth of one of Volnay’s little treasures then began with six hectares of vineyards located within the best climats* of Burgundy. This wine is made with two vineyards located in Volnay, “Les Petits Gamets” and “En Echards” totalling just 1.09 hectares. The average age of the vines is 40 years old.
(from holdings of ~1 ha in Les Petits Gamets and Ez Echards). A slightly riper nose features aromas of poached plum, black raspberry and a top note of menthol. The sleek, delicious and energetic middle weight flavors possess a mineral under current before terminating in a bitter pit fruit-inflected finale. A quality Volnay villages. - Allen Meadows - Burghound.
- DOMAINE ROUGEOT - POMMARD "CLOS DES ROSES" 2016 - $125
This plot of Pommard is facing South-East, and is next to the river which crosses Pommard on the Volnay side. In this part of the village one can find ancient alluvial soils. The nose is delicate with notes of rose petals, fresh strawberry, spice, cherry and earthy flavours. The palate is silky showing a fragrant and profound style in no shortage of complexity. In its youth, decant the wine for 10 minutes before serving and serve it in Pinot Noir glasses. You can cellar it for up to eight years. It goes well with olives, stronger styles of cured meat, spicy dishes, beef steak, blue cheese and cheeses made with cow’s milk. 100% Pinot Noir.
- DOMAINE CONFURON-GINDRE - NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2016 - $125
Domaine Confuron-Gindre has been established six generations ago in Vosne-Romanée and is located Rue de La Tâche. A great sign! Though they don't own the monopoly of la Tâche (Romanée-Conti does), François Confuron-Gindre owns a myriad of ideally located vineyards in Vosne-Romanée and hints in Nuits-St-Georges and Gevrey-Chambertin. The Domaine accounts for 11 hectares, with five village wines, four premier crus in Vosne-Romanée and one grand cru Échezeaux. A blessing, considering Vosne-Romanée is the Holy Grail for Pinot Noir lovers. The Domaine has been under the radar for quite some time, but since Edouard, Francois's son is gradually taking over, the word is out. This cuvée composed of 4 plots on the southern border of Vosne-Romanée, the age of the plots goes from 15 to 80 years for a total surface of 1.34 ha. The wine spends 18 months in barrel with 30% new barrels.
The bouquet is robust showing aromas of black cherries and bramble fruit with hints of smoke, sage and violets. The palate has a deep fruit profile of raspberry, strawberry and blackberry followed by strong minerality that accents a balsamic and vanilla oak tannin structure. It can be enjoyed with venison, veal, duck, quail, kangaroo, smoked meats and charred eggplant. Drink now with a 1hr decant or age till 2027+. 100% Pinot Noir.
- DOMAINE MARC ROY - GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN "CLOS PRIEUR" 2017 - $199
Domaine Marc Roy is an impressive Domaine of only four hectares. Their wines are arguably the most accomplished of the village appellation. “Clos Prieur” is a climat* located right under the Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru climat. Its upper part is classified as 1er Cru whilst its lower part is classified as a village appellation. The highest care is taken when producing this wine making it comparable to good 1er Crus from Gevrey-Chambertin.
A background dollop of wood does not interfere with the appreciation of the wonderfully elegant and super-fresh aromas of pure essence of both red and dark currant that is trimmed in soft spice and earth wisps. The mouthfeel of the medium-bodied flavors is again quite sleek though with more evident minerality on the firm, well-detailed and solidly complex bitter cherry pit-inflected finish. This is once again a beautiful Gevrey villages that should easily reward a decade plus of cellaring if that’s your fruit preference. - Allen Meadows - Burghound.
- CHARLES VAN CANNEYT - GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2017 - $168
Having helmed the iconic Domaine Hudelot-Noellat since 2008, Charles Van Canneyt is well known among burgundy connoisseurs. Charles is Alain Hudelot’s grandson and a very talented and skilled winemaker in his own right. Through his extensive network of Burgundy’s finest growers, Charles sources excellent grapes. By style, it’s aligned with the family wines, pure and terroir transparent. The Gevrey-Chambertin has a delicate nose that gives way to an array of red fruits flavours, red cherry, rose petals, plum and spices.
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin is laced with the essence of rose petal, mint, purplish fruit and lavender. Weightless on the palate and beautifully perfumed, the 2017 offers terrific delineation and energy throughout, with a discreet touch of oak that frames the finish. The 2017 is an especially refined village wine with much to recommend it. This is really quite lovely. - Antonio Galloni - Vinous.