Burgundy Insider Tip - St Aubin 1er Cru Pack
THE GO-TO WHITES FOR BURGUNDY INSIDERS
The Colin family is revered throughout Burgundy's Côte de Beaune, with a storied history and penchant for crafting exceptional wines of distinction. Indeed, many of its members run prominent Domaines in Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. Joseph Colin initially trained at Domaine Marc Colin, working alongside his brother, Pierre-Yves, to make the family wines. In 2016, Joseph decided to create his own Domaine, and, subsequently, inherited just over six hectares of vineyards from his family holding, representing about nineteen different appellations, to start his exciting new venture.
REVIEWS AND TASTING NOTES BY JASPER MORRIS
Already in his second full vintage Joseph Colin is making 21 cuvées spread over 6ha, with two more St-Aubin 1ers Crus coming on stream next year. The wines are made in a fresh style, with 15% new oak the absolute maximum and even then mostly in 500 litre barrels. Joseph falls into the ‘mineral’ rather than ‘full-bodied’ school of white wine producers.
The 2018 harvest took four weeks in all, beginning with "Caillerets" and "Vide-Bourses" on 28th August and finishing with the coolest corner for St-Aubin and the Aligoté on 20th September. The wines were made without sulphur until the following August and either had been bottled or were just about to be when I visited.
ST-AUBIN 1ER CRU "CLOS DU MEIX" 2018 - $125
Pale lemon and lime, with some attractive floral qualities. Loads of energy here, lovely ripe apple fruit, good energy throughout and very nicely balanced. Tasted: November 2019 (89-92pts)
- ST-AUBIN 1ER CRU "SUR LE SENTIER DU CLOS" 2018 - $125
From the subsection called Travers de Marinot. More lemon than lime in colour, with quite a delicate nose, but the fruit explodes very nicely on the palate, soft and charming. It dances on the palate, offering excellent balance with a fresh tingling finish. (90-92)
- ST-AUBIN 1ER CRU "LES FRIONNES" 2018 - $125
From the bottom of the slope which here is notably cooler. Lemon and lime. A greener note to the bouquet, more phenolic, yet with depth and punch behind. Lime notes too. (88-91pts)
- ST-AUBIN 1ER CRU "EN REMILLY" 2018 - $135
Three quarters on the plateau and the rest is below in the Les Cortons subdivision. Fine pale colour, light yellow fruit ,sunny but fresh and lively, offering a valuable bit of tension. Sunshine and minerality together says Joseph. Certainly the fruit is agreeably ripe at the finish, without losing this tension. (91-93pts)
- ST-AUBIN 1ER CRU "LES COMBES" 2018 - $125
From Pitangeret. Fullish yellow the nose showing some depth of soft fruit. Nicely balanced on the palate, mix of yellow and white fruit, good tension. How much follow through? (88-91pts)
- ST-AUBIN 1ER CRU "LA CHATENIERE" 2018 - $135
The larger plot is lower down and is picked later the rest on the steep slope higher up. I love the finish here, beautifully chiselled, clean cut white fruit all the way through and very persistent. (91-93pts)